Zara

"It was almost night by then we were out of the hands of a rigorous set of custom-house officers, and fairly within the walls of Zara. Here I was informed that the next steamer for Spalato and Ragusa would not leave until Thursday morning (p. 53). […] Early on the following morning I commenced upon the town. At once it recalls to mind Venice. The same courts, with wells for rain-water in the centre; the same comparatively lofty houses, and narrow streets for foot-passengers only; the same piazza, on a reduce scale, with its hall of justice, its church, even its cafés; the same Oriental marble columns scattered about; the bell-towers; the Byzantine churches, dedicated to saints not only of the churches but also of the Old Testament; and the same favourite French improvement of modern days, “public gardens”, in front of which are some excellent and very handsome stone wells of spring water, the greatest boon, probably, bestowed by the nineteenth century of ancient “Jadera”. (p. 54) […] The interior of the church was fine, and glittering after Dalmatian fashion for the festival. The dresses of the people were certainly not less ornamental. The men often exhibited the old Austrian pigtail, tied with ribbon, appearing from beneath a red or black and gold-embroidered and tasselled cap, their loose trouseres blue, with red edgings, and a red waistcoat, with a jacket slung on hussar fashion. The women’s heads were covered with white kerchiefs, bordered with a red stripe or hem, thrown loosely on; and they wore purple polkas trimmed with red, purple “krilo” or petticoat, and their opankès laced with scarlet. All the peasantry on this coast, from Fiume inclusive, wear, not shoes, but the opankè, which is made of a sort of untanned (but otherwise prepared) hide, tied on with thongs, the sole projecting beyond the foot, and admirably suited to protect it on these stony hills. […] It is interesting to see how the history of the place is built into its walls and public buildings." (pp. 56-57-58)