Traù

“There are two ways to going to Trogir, by steamer or by road, but the steamers are run to suit local needs and not as a convenience for the casual tourist, and the half-hour between their arrival and departure is too short a time in which to enjoy Trogir, while to wait for the next would involve spending a day in a place which appears to offer no sustenance except a cup of a bad coffee. It is better then to do the recognized round and to go on to Trogir after Salona.

The little town stands on a flat promontory which has been made into an island by cutting a moat in the narrow isthmus, while one the other side a swinging bridge connects it with the Island of Bua. Traù has lost its walls and the empty space where they once stood gives it a curiously unfinished appearence, but two gates with their familiar lions still remain, one opposite to each of its bridges (p. 87).

The great glory of Trogir is the cathedral of Hungarian Gothic, and the great glory of the cathedral is the western porch, not only the finest in Dalmatia, but one of the finest in Europe. […]. The great Galilee Porch which stretches across the whole of the west end and rises to half the height of the nave has a beautiful colonnade which has sheltered and protected the marvelous carvings which surround the west door. Sir Thomas Jackson, the greatest authority on the architecture of the province, is nowhere as enthusiastic as in his description of this triumph of the architect and sculptor (pp. 88-89).

Unlike many works of art it is possible to enjoy the portal in complete comfort, for stone benches run along the opposite side of the porch, and here the enthusiast can sit in the shade and study the beauty of the whole and the amazing variety and vitality of the details. […]. The streets in Trogir can boast of being the narrowest in Dalmatia; here the pedestrian does not walk in absolute security, for if a loaded donkey appears it is wise to seek a doorway, since the donkey will go firmly on and there is not room to pass him (pp. 91-93)”.