Bencovazzo

"July 24 was fixed upon for our pilgrimage from Zara over land. Benco, the place where we were to change horses, consists of an old tower and about ten houses, situated on a hill as in the centre of a desert. […]. Sometimes we met a few masculine women driving goats, and at the same time spinning with their distaff or embroidering garments; at others a body of male peasants escorting, most strongly armed, some carts of hay. All the men, whether at the plough, or in their own cottage, still continue armed with pistols. The countr is so barren, that the mountaineers are forced to live by hunting or by robbery (pp. 32-33).
We obtained at Benco some black bread and bad wine, the whole that we had through this eventful day. After being delayed for two hours for horses, we again proceeded on our march. Our Panduri, as we now advanced into the more inland and dangerous parts, were increased to three. The people of Benco had endeavoured to dissuade us from proceeding by telling us a most horrid story of an attack three days before [...].
The country as we advanced became more hilly: eminences were crowned by little towers, formerly built by the Turks, but at present inhabited by these robber-takers. [...]. Hour after hour passed, and we saw no signs of habitation. The guards spoke no other language but Illyric. For the first time the idea occurred that they might intend to betray us (pp. 34-35)".