Zara

"Zara in particular is almost entirely Italian, but everywhere else the 'national' or Slavonic element is gradually ousting the 'autonomous' or Italian (p. 291). Zara, Slav. Zadar, the Roman Jader, the capital of Dalmatia, with 13,000 inhab., a town of thoroughly Italian character, lies picturesquely on a peninsula stretching from S. E. to N. W., on the Canale di Zara. It is a busy, lively place, to which the costumes of  the Morlaks impart an interesting air of variety. The strong fortifications have been converted into promenades (p. 292). From the landing-place on the Riva Francesco Giuseppe (Riva Nuova), near the Hôtel Bristol  we follow the quay to the left, and near the Post Office turn to the right to the Piazza delle Erbe. Straight on the Archiepiscopal Palace , behind it San Donato and the Cathedral; to the left are an antique Corintian column, crowned with a griffin, once used a pillory, and the Servian church of Sant'Elia; to the right (approached by the Via Santa Maria) the conventual church of Santa Maria, which on the wall to the right contains a painting *Christ and Mary, under glass, by an unknown master (perphaps Tintoretto?). The ancient church of * San Donato  erected in the 9th cent. on the foundations and partly with materials  of a Roman temple, [...] and is now used as a Museum [...]. Outside the town beyond the Porta di Terraferma ('land-gate'), erected by Sanmicheli in 1543, is the Blazekovic Park, with luxuriant vegetation and a beautiful view of the island of Ugljan and the Velebit range. Farther on is the Albanian village of Erizzo" (pp.293-294-295).