Salona

“I visited Salona accompanied by Professor Carrara, who had been all along my obliging and instructive cicerone in Spalato. The distance is about three miles, and we proceeded thither on foot, as the road is good and the country delightful. […]. Standing on a bridge not far from its entrance into the gulf, the broad meadows, with the flocks cropping the fresh luxuriant grass, conjoined with the abundant wood and water, made us forget the sterile and rocky character of Dalmatia, and remember the spring (p. 298).

The ruins of Salona and its charming gulf now engaged my attention. The remains of the once flourishing capital of the Dalmatia of the Romans, situated in the fairest portion of the whole land, transported me again in imagination to the hours I had passed at Tivoli, Pompei, and all those delicious places which enable Italy to combine more instruction with pleasure than any other country (p. 295).

In 1821 the late Emperor Francis, who took a great interest in Dalmatia, ordered the excavation of Salona and Pola, after his visit to this kingdom; and laborious excavations were made in search of statues in many places, which were filled up again if they promised no result. This went on until Professor Carrara perceived that it was putting the cart before the horse, and that the only mode of getting at a satisfactory result was the actual excavation of the base of the circuit of the town, so that the gates as well as the true perimeter being laid bare. In spite of a great deal of opposition, he has succeeded in getting some funds from the government; and the whole circuit of the town being now laid bare, what was taken for a gate turns out to be a space between two towers (pp. 297-298). 

One of the most interesting objects in the northern part of the city near the wall is the excavation of a bath, which shews that the modern oriental bath is essentially the same as that of the ancients. If I had not known that I was treading the ruins of Salona, I could have supposed myself to be standing in the remains of a Turkish or Arab bath (p. 302).

A leisurely walk back to the town amid the shades of evening terminated my trip to Salona; and the next day I went with fresh zest to the new museum of antiquities, for the most part dug out of the ruins I had seen, which is situated in Spalato, close to the Porta Aenea, or Gate of Brass. It was begun by a Dr. Lanza; but has been for some time under the care of Professor Carrara, and is gradually acquiring extent and importance. […]. The Government grants the small sum of eighty pounds per annum for the excavations; but, with more pacific times, I should like to see a more liberal gift; and with erudition of so distinguished a classical antiquary as Professor Carrara, little doubt would exist of much additional light being thrown on the public monuments and private life of the Roman Dalmatians (pp. 304-305)”.